Adding color to your skin on frame boat
We use acid dyes and earth pigments to color our skin-on-frame boats. Acid dyes are applied to the fabric with a foam brush before coating. Pigments are mixed directly into the 2 part polyurethane. Both systems have advantages and disadvantages, so please watch the color videos and read the descriptions below carefully before choosing your color.
Note: The colors below are photographs of the actual color mix on nylon coated with polyurethane, but due to variation in monitor color displays or application technique, we cannot guarantee accuracy. Click to enlarge images
Note: The colors below are photographs of the actual color mix on nylon coated with polyurethane, but due to variation in monitor color displays or application technique, we cannot guarantee accuracy. Click to enlarge images
Earth Pigments
(scroll down for Acid Dye info and color chart)
Pigments are much more colorfast (especially in the darker colors), are compatible with all cloths, and come in colors that don't work well in dye. The disadvantage to earth pigment is that it is harder to apply evenly in darker colors.
IMPORTANT READ THIS ENTIRE PARAGRAPH: Each of these swatches shows the tint strength of 4 level teaspoons per 32 oz of spirit line Part B polyurethane, which is the maximum amount of pigment we can guarantee won't disrupt the chemistry of the coating. What this means is that you should pay attention the COLOR of the swatch below, not how dark it is. Any of these colors can be lightened significantly by adding less pigment, which will also result in a more translucent boat and an easier application. Also, these swatches were created with less mixing and heavier coats than we use when coating actual boats, so any blotchiness or dark spots is related to application, not the pigment itself, although in general oxide pigments colors are a bit less "smooth" than ocher and natural earth pigments. Oxides also tint much more strongly and are more opaque at full strength. Although much more resistant to yellowing in sunlight than acid dye, all pigment colors will yellow, so cooler colors will warm with age. We will have side by side UV exposure comparisons posted by the end of 2023. Click on thumbnails below for enlarged view.
Pigments are much more colorfast (especially in the darker colors), are compatible with all cloths, and come in colors that don't work well in dye. The disadvantage to earth pigment is that it is harder to apply evenly in darker colors.
IMPORTANT READ THIS ENTIRE PARAGRAPH: Each of these swatches shows the tint strength of 4 level teaspoons per 32 oz of spirit line Part B polyurethane, which is the maximum amount of pigment we can guarantee won't disrupt the chemistry of the coating. What this means is that you should pay attention the COLOR of the swatch below, not how dark it is. Any of these colors can be lightened significantly by adding less pigment, which will also result in a more translucent boat and an easier application. Also, these swatches were created with less mixing and heavier coats than we use when coating actual boats, so any blotchiness or dark spots is related to application, not the pigment itself, although in general oxide pigments colors are a bit less "smooth" than ocher and natural earth pigments. Oxides also tint much more strongly and are more opaque at full strength. Although much more resistant to yellowing in sunlight than acid dye, all pigment colors will yellow, so cooler colors will warm with age. We will have side by side UV exposure comparisons posted by the end of 2023. Click on thumbnails below for enlarged view.
Orange Oxide
OXIDE _ A vibrant orange with strong tint strength. Full concentration is a bit bright for me personally, but at half strength it's a close match to our Aztec Gold acid dye color. |
Yellow Oxide
OXIDE _ An intense deep yellow approaching orange at full concentration. Note that this pigment has tiny black flecks which aren't visible from more than 5 feet away. Strong tint strength. |
Yellow Ocher
OCHER _ A lovely golden color, this is a close match for our Gold Ochre dye, which is one of my favorites. Could be diluted or mixed with red or brown to knock down the brightness and shift the color. |
Natural Sienna
NATURAL EARTH _ This weak tint strength natural pigment looks like parchment in weaker concentrations. A good choice for those wanting a bit more color than the the 2 part poly alone, but not looking for a colorful boat. |
Straw
OCHER _ Similar to the Natural Yellow but with a lighter tint strength. Also an amber/straw color that can be lightened with less pigment. |
Natural Yellow
NATURAL EARTH _ More of an amber/straw color with medium tint strength. Looks more yellowish when less pigment is added. |
Amber
OCHER _ A weak tint strength amber with a pink hue that should darken and warm over time. |
Apricot
OCHER _ Sort of a salmon color that will turn more yellow and less pink and also darken over time. Medium tint strength. |
Cool Red Oxide
OXIDE _ A deep, cool red with extremely strong tint strength. Makes a nearly opaque coating at full concentration. Will warm with UV exposure. |
Warm Red Oxide
OXIDE _ A warmer red with very strong tint strength, starts out near primary red but will warm from there with UV exposure. |
Natural Red
NATURAL EARTH _ A cooler natural red with a surprisingly strong tint strength for natural earth. Like all reds it will warm up with exposure to the sun. |
Burnt Sienna
NATURAL EARTH _ The truest burnt sienna of all the burnt siennas we tested. Nice earthy reddish brown with medium tint strength. |
Cool Brown Oxide
OXIDE _ A cooler dark brown with very strong tint strength. |
Cool Umber
NATURAL EARTH _ A cooler, even umber with medium tint strength. |
Burnt Umber
NATURAL EARTH _ The truest burnt umber color of all the samples we tested. Nice warm brown with medium tint strength. |
Warm Brown Oxide
OXIDE _ A rich warm dark brown with very strong tint strength. |
Raw Umber
NATURAL EARTH _ The coolest brown we offer, almost olive at first, but will warm with UV exposure. Medium-strong tint strength. |
Black
OXIDE _ Will make a nearly opaque true black (and hot boat!) at full concentration. I often mix this with brown for a deep chocolate sealskin look. |
Blue (experimental)
OXIDE _ An intense blue that could be darkened by adding a bit of black. Blues change more than other colors as UV exposure yellows the coating. This should stay blue longer than an acid dye blue, but we'd expect it to eventually turn more of a green-grey. |
Shamrock (experimental)
OXIDE _ I call this lucky charms green! An intense green, it's a bit bright for my taste but can be darkened a bit with some black if desired. Should develop a yellow cast with age. |
Acid Dyes
The advantage to acid dye is that it creates vibrant, saturated colors, and is easy to apply. The disadvantage is that it is not compatible with all types of cloth (see color video), and the colors will fade over time. Lighter colors are more colorfast and darker colors age more roughly. For some people the roughly aged darker color add a "natural" appeal. For others it just looks bad. The chart below shows the initial color next to the same color with exposure to 1000 hours of intense sunlight. Click on thumbnails for enlarged view.
Sunshine
2GO |
Gold Ochre
4GO |
Aztec Gold
4AG |
Buckskin
3AG + 1B |
Coffee (Updated)
2O |
Boot Leather (Updated)
4O |
Brown
4B |
Walnut
3B + 1C |
Chocolate
2B + 2C |
Chestnut **
4C |
Oxblood (Updated)
3B + 1R |
Burgundy
2B + 2R |
Russet **
4R |
Sunset
3AG + 1R |
Sweet Potato
3GO + 1/2R + 1/2B |
Spruce
4S |
For those wishing to mix their own colors, we have included the recipe of the Jacquard Acid Dyes we use to make these colors. All numbers represent level teaspoons.
Abbreviations of Jacquard Acid Dye Colors: GO= Gold Ochre AG=Aztec Gold B=Brown C=Chestnut R=Russet O=Olive S=Spruce ** Russet & Chestnut fade heavily and are recommended for mixing only
Abbreviations of Jacquard Acid Dye Colors: GO= Gold Ochre AG=Aztec Gold B=Brown C=Chestnut R=Russet O=Olive S=Spruce ** Russet & Chestnut fade heavily and are recommended for mixing only
